Your browser is out of date. It may not display all features of this websites. We recommend to use one of these browsers or versions Mozila Firefox or Google Chrome

Connect
To Top

Vintage cooking, contemporary method

By: Reading Time: 3 Minutes

Sometimes gastronomy behaves like the fashion industry: more and more trends in less and less time. And then, there are things that become timeless. Such as vintage fashion. Or smoking food. But what is behind the trend of re-energizing an apparently old method of preserving?

As said, smoking used to be used primarily to preserve food. In times of cold storage and blast chillers, however, this is no longer necessary. Now smoking is mainly used to intensify colour, smell and taste. And also to change the texture of the food. It is so nice to see this richness in Pulled Pork, which looks like a brown stone after eight hours and more of grilling and smoking, but falls apart juicily and tenderly after just one touch of a fork. The intense, smoky aroma is created during hot smoking between 60 and 120 °C. In order to get to the right temperature, a heat source in the smoking chamber is needed in addition to the smoker wood. This must be available independently of the smoking process.

Then there is intensive, dry hot smoking at 80 °C. This is referred to as frying and leads to high water loss and stronger flavour development. In the past, the process was carried out by wood fires; modern smoking ovens work with gas or electricity. And the latest trend is smoking in the intelligent combi-steamer, which can produce an even stronger aroma with five pre-smoking stages. More on this later.

What else can be put in the oven? To make a long story short: everything. Fish, meat, fruit, vegetables, cheese, tea, tofu, sweet potatoes. Even beer is sometimes made from smoked hops. Fir-smoked trout, Cheesy Moink Balls (the favourite when you need a base for beer), spare ribs, shortribs (two classics), pastrami (for the legendary sandwiches) and of course salmon, duck breast and chicken. Smoked food even goes to dessert: have you ever tried smoked advocaat over sorbet? Or even smoked ice cream with cold-stirred cranberries. This sounds paradoxical, but in the mouth it develops an extraordinary aroma that you cannot identify at first glance leading to a further taste and need another one and another spoon. For all those who are now experiencing mouth watering anticipation, the recipe is below. It’s clear that there are no limits to your imagination, your taste buds are more likely to go numb before you get there. But always remember: Shit in, shit out. Even the best smoke flavour does not turn a chicken into a pheasant.

Smoked vegetable in combi oven

Image: aprilante AdobeStock

How is aroma created? Through the smoking wood, which is almost a science in itself. Because the spectrum ranges from maple to cedar wood. Hay, fir, laurel and rosemary are equally suitable. The mild, slightly sweetish aroma of maple, for example, refines poultry. Hickory with a very strong aroma is particularly suitable for beef, pork and lamb. Rather smoke something with fish or seafood? Then apple, alder or red cedar are suitable. But you don’t have to learn everything by trial and error, as exciting as this can be, on the packaging of the smoked chips it will often says exactly what is suitable for what. But even then, the creativity of blending these ideas and enjoying the results will soon have you hooked.

Tasting works best when you can concentrate fully on the taste and do not have to worry about the right temperature and smoke. This is where an intelligent combi-steamer helps. For example, you can connect the so-called VarioSmoker to the iCombi Pro from RATIONAL. This is a metal smoking box that is filled with the desired wood or other smoking material and placed in the combi-steamer. Just connect the VarioSmoker to the combi-steamer via a USB cable and the display will automatically show different, intelligent cooking paths. Select the desired one and off you go. If different results are desired, the cooking path can be adjusted accordingly. For example with pre-smokers. The ice cream was also smoked in an iCombi Pro. Only one thing remains to be done: Good luck!

smoking smoked Ice cream VarioSmoker RATIONAL

Image: Anke Sommer, Rational AG

The recipe: Smoked ice cream
For approx. 600 ml ice cream

260 g cream
260 g milk
60 g sugar
100 g egg yolk
5 g vanilla sugar

For smoking:
50 g apple wood shavings

variant:
20 g ginger paste
15 g honey

Smoke the cream in the combi steamer iCombi Pro for 30 minutes with the smoking setting. Add milk, sugar, egg yolk and vanilla sugar, mix well and then vacuum in a bag. Steam for 20 min in the iCombi Pro at 82° C. Let cool down. As usual, freeze the mixture in a sorbetière to a firm cream. Serve with gingerbread biscuit and cold-stirred cranberries.

[Reuse this content]

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

More in Chef's Life

  • A menu à la food waste

    Food waste and disposable tableware are not necessary. With their project Wasteware, Kilga and Gollacker demonstrate how sustainable design and cuisine...

    Editor - Falstaff ProfiOctober 28, 2020
  • Flourishing Prospects

    Whether sugar-coated, dried, powdered, concealed as essence or nicely laid out – many flowers are edible and increasingly end up on...

    Maria-Jacoba Geremus - FalstaffOctober 19, 2020
  • Fish Wall Street

    Tokyo’s Toyosu Market is to seafood what Wall Street is to stocks and bonds: a financial seismograph for the entire industry,...

    Ilona MarxOctober 15, 2020
  • Plant-based seafood. The plant-based shrimp on trial.

    The small, salmon-red shrimp slides into the hot oil with a juicy sizzling sound. An unmistakable roasting aroma immediately. Fake wafts...

    Heike LucasOctober 1, 2020
  • The meat of the matter

    Carrie Chan CEO of Avant Meats discusses the science behind the most sustainable and energy efficient alternative to meat production: cultivated...

    Romilly Leech - FCSISeptember 17, 2020
  • Just what the doctor ordered

    How one Illinois food hall is serving up not just a great variety of food, but unique opportunities for female and...

    Liz Cooley - FCSISeptember 10, 2020
  • The New age of food – How is convenience created?

    How is convenience created? What really matters during production? We offer an exclusive look behind the scenes in this industry, which...

    Lucas Palm - Rolling PinAugust 13, 2020
  • Bauhaus for restauranteurs

    René Redzepi’s already written history. Now he’s moving on to textbooks. Noma revolutionized Scandinavian cuisine by drawing inspiration from a Swedish...

    Ilona MarxJuly 20, 2020
  • 20 Best Chefs on Instagram 2020

    Underdogs and top stars, hobby and professional gourmets: They all cavort on Instagram. Instagram connects gourmets across kitchen and country borders....

    KTCHNrebel editorial teamJune 15, 2020