Your browser is out of date. It may not display all features of this websites. We recommend to use one of these browsers or versions Mozila Firefox or Google Chrome

To Top

Vintage cooking, contemporary method

By: Reading Time: 3 Minutes

Sometimes gastronomy behaves like the fashion industry: more and more trends in less and less time. And then, there are things that become timeless. Such as vintage fashion. Or smoking food. But what is behind the trend of re-energizing an apparently old method of preserving?

As said, smoking used to be used primarily to preserve food. In times of cold storage and blast chillers, however, this is no longer necessary. Now smoking is mainly used to intensify colour, smell and taste. And also to change the texture of the food. It is so nice to see this richness in Pulled Pork, which looks like a brown stone after eight hours and more of grilling and smoking, but falls apart juicily and tenderly after just one touch of a fork. The intense, smoky aroma is created during hot smoking between 60 and 120 °C. In order to get to the right temperature, a heat source in the smoking chamber is needed in addition to the smoker wood. This must be available independently of the smoking process.

Then there is intensive, dry hot smoking at 80 °C. This is referred to as frying and leads to high water loss and stronger flavour development. In the past, the process was carried out by wood fires; modern smoking ovens work with gas or electricity. And the latest trend is smoking in the intelligent combi-steamer, which can produce an even stronger aroma with five pre-smoking stages. More on this later.

What else can be put in the oven? To make a long story short: everything. Fish, meat, fruit, vegetables, cheese, tea, tofu, sweet potatoes. Even beer is sometimes made from smoked hops. Fir-smoked trout, Cheesy Moink Balls (the favourite when you need a base for beer), spare ribs, shortribs (two classics), pastrami (for the legendary sandwiches) and of course salmon, duck breast and chicken. Smoked food even goes to dessert: have you ever tried smoked advocaat over sorbet? Or even smoked ice cream with cold-stirred cranberries. This sounds paradoxical, but in the mouth it develops an extraordinary aroma that you cannot identify at first glance leading to a further taste and need another one and another spoon. For all those who are now experiencing mouth watering anticipation, the recipe is below. It’s clear that there are no limits to your imagination, your taste buds are more likely to go numb before you get there. But always remember: Shit in, shit out. Even the best smoke flavour does not turn a chicken into a pheasant.

Smoked vegetable in combi oven

Image: aprilante AdobeStock

How is aroma created? Through the smoking wood, which is almost a science in itself. Because the spectrum ranges from maple to cedar wood. Hay, fir, laurel and rosemary are equally suitable. The mild, slightly sweetish aroma of maple, for example, refines poultry. Hickory with a very strong aroma is particularly suitable for beef, pork and lamb. Rather smoke something with fish or seafood? Then apple, alder or red cedar are suitable. But you don’t have to learn everything by trial and error, as exciting as this can be, on the packaging of the smoked chips it will often says exactly what is suitable for what. But even then, the creativity of blending these ideas and enjoying the results will soon have you hooked.

Tasting works best when you can concentrate fully on the taste and do not have to worry about the right temperature and smoke. This is where an intelligent combi-steamer helps. For example, you can connect the so-called VarioSmoker to the iCombi Pro from RATIONAL. This is a metal smoking box that is filled with the desired wood or other smoking material and placed in the combi-steamer. Just connect the VarioSmoker to the combi-steamer via a USB cable and the display will automatically show different, intelligent cooking paths. Select the desired one and off you go. If different results are desired, the cooking path can be adjusted accordingly. For example with pre-smokers. The ice cream was also smoked in an iCombi Pro. Only one thing remains to be done: Good luck!

smoking smoked Ice cream VarioSmoker RATIONAL

Image: Anke Sommer, Rational AG

The recipe: Smoked ice cream
For approx. 600 ml ice cream

260 g cream
260 g milk
60 g sugar
100 g egg yolk
5 g vanilla sugar

For smoking:
50 g apple wood shavings

20 g ginger paste
15 g honey

Smoke the cream in the combi steamer iCombi Pro for 30 minutes with the smoking setting. Add milk, sugar, egg yolk and vanilla sugar, mix well and then vacuum in a bag. Steam for 20 min in the iCombi Pro at 82° C. Let cool down. As usual, freeze the mixture in a sorbetière to a firm cream. Serve with gingerbread biscuit and cold-stirred cranberries.

[Reuse this content]

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

More in Chef's Life

  • In-vitro meat: wagyu beef from the 3D printer

    For the first time, researchers at Osaka University have created textured in-vitro meat with a Wagyu-like consistency using a bio-printer.

    Rolling PinSeptember 30, 2021
  • What’s on the menu?

    Foodservice operators have had to pay close attention to restaurant menus as consumer demands fluctuated during the pandemic. It is a...

    Tina Nielsen - FCSISeptember 3, 2021
  • Tamarind – the globetrotter

    Although not many people here have heard of tamarind, it is definitely a bona fide globetrotter. Ok, so it can't play...

    Lucas Palm - RollingPinAugust 17, 2021
  • Contactless but still close to the guest

    Automated check-in, digitized menus and services with no direct contact to guests. The pandemic has sparked a digitalization boom in the...

    Michael Pech - Falstaff ProfiAugust 12, 2021
  • Game cuisine

    It's not all just venison or wild boar. After all, many other creatures live in the forest and mountains. Ever cooked...

    Sonja Planeta – Fallstaff ProfiAugust 10, 2021
  • Mangosteen: the queen of fruits

    This exotic fruit owes its lofty nickname to Queen Victoria, the second longest-ruling British monarch: Legend has it that Victoria promised...

    Rolling PinJuly 22, 2021
  • Do (not) finish me off

    The sound and not-so-young convenience production industry is finally speaking up for itself. Why they feels so at home in their...

    Lucas Palm - RollingPinJune 15, 2021
  • Bread and games

    If you want to know how to make 90,000 people happy in the shortest amount of time, ask Stefan Pappert. After...

    Heike LucasJune 10, 2021
  • Best Chefs of Instagram 2021

    Haute cuisine meets snackable content: the perfect mix! It's not just in kitchens around the world that things are bubbling, simmering...

    KTCHNrebel Editorial TeamJune 7, 2021