“From savory kebabs to sweet treats like baklava, each dish tells its own story and is an expression of our hospitality and cultural identity.” When Elif Oskan describes Turkish cuisine, it is as a multitude of flavors and stories. She is particularly fond of spices such as isot, pul biber and sumac, which are not only indispensable in terms of flavor, but are also deeply rooted in her culture.
Image: Charlotte Fischli
Gül restaurant – a new interpretation of Turkish cuisine
Elif Oskanis bringing a breath of fresh air to traditional Turkish cuisine with her “Nouvelle CÜISINE” concept at her restaurant Gül in the 4th district of the city. In the traditional sense, nouvelle cuisine is usually associated with French cuisine. However, when all is said and done, it simply describes the modern interpretation of traditional cooking techniques and ingredients. This approach not only emphasizes the aesthetics of the food, but also focuses on using lighter preparation methods and combining ingredients in new ways.
“In my cuisine, this means that I present traditional recipes in a way that appeals to both history and contemporary tastes,” says Oskan. “Nouvelle CÜISINE – a tongue-in-cheek nod to the fondness for umlauts in the Turkish language and a shout-out to my cookbook CÜISINE – enables me to respect the fundamentals of Turkish gastronomy while also making room for innovation and experimentation.”
Elif Oskan’s culinary career
In 1990, Elif Oskan came to Switzerland from southeast Anatolia with her parents when she was seven months old. Her love of gastronomy began in her mother’s kitchen, where she discovered the flavors and techniques of Turkish cuisine. “Turkish cuisine has always been the staple in our home,” says the now 34-year-old. After receiving solid training at Hotel Sonne in Küsnacht am Zurichsee, she gained valuable experience in renowned restaurants such as Mesa in Zurich and the three-star restaurant The Fat Duck by Heston Blumenthal in Bray near London. That’s where she met Markus Stöckle, her partner in life and business, with whom she opened the restaurant Ros in 2018, followed by Gül a year later. Today, they are Zurich’s culinary dream couple.
A key element of Elif Oskan’s cooking philosophy is the use of regional ingredients. At Gül, emphasis is placed on using local resources and seasonal products. “We source many spices and tomato and paprika salças from small producers in Turkey,” explains Oskan. Incidentally, her father, affectionately known as Baba, also plays an important role in this regard. The zucchini from his own garden are roasted on a charcoal grill – one example of the family’s connection to culinary arts.
Image: Joan Minder
Nouvelle Cüisine – Innovative, classic, perfectly designed
Her creations surprise guests with innovative combinations – for example, her Iskender kebab, where lamb is replaced by succulent Alpstein chicken, as Elif Oskan explains. “A good example of this joy of experimentation is my interpretation of a very traditional dish, the Iskender Kebab. I keep the basic elements like yogurt, butter and tomato salça and combine them in a light, fruity sauce. At the same time, I allow myself to replace the classic lamb with succulent Alpstein chicken. Instead of the usual croutons that accompany the saucy dish, I use a Turkish-flavored mix of panko (Japanese breadcrumbs). The first time I tried it, Markus was so impressed that I named the dish Marküs Bayıldı and put it on the menu as a tribute.”
For Oskan, the presentation of her dishes also plays a decisive role. “Flavor is the foundation of a successful culinary experience.” A perfectly designed plate and carefully selected glass and silverware enhance the overall experience.
Image: Charlotte Fischli
Tradition breaks new ground
Like many chefs, Elif Oskan faces challenges – but she sees these as opportunities for growth. She is convinced that Turkish cuisine will continue to gain popularity in a globalized world. “It is currently experiencing a significant upturn. Culinary tourism, Michelin awards and inclusion in the top 50 list contribute to increasing the recognition of Turkish cuisine worldwide. Nevertheless, Turkey remains strongly regional, similar to Switzerland. This diversity is a strength, but also a challenge, as the cuisine relies on local resources and therefore does not necessarily depend on international popularity. Nevertheless, I am convinced that if Turkish cuisine continues to be promoted and presented globally, it can become even more popular.”
Elif Oskan’s approach not only preserves the tradition of Turkish cuisine, but also takes new approaches to make it accessible to a wider audience. Her Nouvelle CÜISINE, which she brings to life in her cookbook alongside her restaurant, is an impressive example of how to respect cultural roots while simultaneously creating room for innovation – a culinary experience full of surprises.
